Location: Old Town Bangkok (Rattanakosin) Historical Overview of Old Town: Before Bangkok was established, the Choa Praya River Once had a drastic horseshoe bend the curved to the West around some olive groves. The area inside the horse was settled by Khmer residence and later by the Thais in the 1500s who named their small village Olive Town (Bang Makok). The River was eventually straightened to its current path by a canal allowing boats more easily travel to the Siamese capital of Ayutthaya 50 miles to the North. Olive Town (Bang Makok) only slowly grew as did the community of working-class Chinese immigrants on the Eastside of the River. When the capital of Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767, General Taskin was inspired by Wat Arun to move the capital to Olive Town (Bang Makok). The General had just become King, called his new capitol Thornburi, and built his new capital right next to Wat Arun. The General’s reign only lasted 15 years as the Chakri dynasty took over in 1782 under King Rama I. One of King Rama’s 1st moves was to move the capital across the Choa Praya River to the East and build a huge Grand Palace complex modeled after the ancient capital of Ayutthaya. As he started his new capital called Rattanakosin, Rama had to convince the Chinese settlers in the area to move a couple miles South to the current Chinatown. Everything went pretty smooth and it laid the groundwork for what became the city of Bangkok (or Island City). To this day the Chakris are still the Royal Family figureheads although there is now elected President actually running the country. *From the Tha Tien ferry station, take the river crosser to the… Almost 100 years later the Siamese capital city of Ayutthaya fell to Burmese forces in 1767 and was largely left in ruins. General Taksin led the Siamese forces to kick the Burmese out and quickly became the new King after his victory. It is said that during the war General Taksin saw Wat Makok in the morning light and was deeply inspired by it. This memory moved King Taksin to relocate the capital of Siam from Ayutthaya to Bang Makok and renamed the new capital Thornburi. The temple was renamed Wat Arun after the Hindu god of the Dawn and King Taksin built his new Royal Palace (Derm Palace) next to it, where the Royal Thai Naval Academy sit today. King Taksin revered the Hindu temple so much that he kept the famed Emerald Buddha Statue here from 1778 until his death 4 years later. With Taksin’s death, the Chakri Dynasty took over the throne under King Rama I (1782-1809). The new king, once again moved the capital, this time just across the river to Rattanakosin. King Rama I transferred the Emerald Buddha Statue in his new Grand Palace, and largely ignored Wat Arun while his new capital was being built. Luckily his successors, King Rama II (1809–1824) and King Rama III (1824–1851), decided to do extensive restorationsand upgrades to Wat Arun after years of neglect. During this time the main Prang tower was further built up, capped by a seven-pronged Trident of Shiva, decorated with colorful Chinese porcelain pieces, and supported by rows of detailed statues. During the process the main tower, which is meant to represent the legendary Mount Meru, grew to a height of 262 feet. In ancient Hindu mythology Mount Meru was the center of the Universe and was said to be 672,000 miles high. While the main tower is extremely impressive, we also like the four smaller towers on the corners dedicated to the Phra Phai, Hindu God of Wind, as protection for the Temple. You could spend hours examining the amazing statues that circle almost every inch of Wat Arun’s facade and ground. As you enter the temple complex you’re greeted by two huge demon statues (yaksha) from the Hindu story of Ramayana guarding the ordination hall. The white guardian is Sahassateja, the green one is Tasakanth, and both guard against evil spirits. As you approach the base of the 234 foot tall Wat Arun, make sure to check out the sculptures of animals and Chinese soldiers which are not just guarding, but also supporting the first couple levels of the tower. As you climb up the very steep steps toward the top of the tower, you’ll come very close to four statues of the Hindu god Indra riding on her elephant Erawan. The views from the top are very rewarding. The best views of the Temple itself come from the river at dawn as the porcelain shines in the sun or from dusk on as a combo of a sunset back drop and accent lighting make Wat Arun look amazing. Visiting Hours: Daily 7:30am-5:30pm. Cost: 50Baht. River Crossing Ferry: Ferries leave from Tha Tien every 10-15 minutes from 6am-10pm and cost only 3 Baht. Temple Website: (HERE).
Scam Alert: If someone tells you that the Grand Palace is closed for the day don’t believe them. Go to the main entrance and look for yourself, it is extremely rare for the complex to be closed for a special royal ceremony. Often the scammers will tell you it’s closed for so many hours and try to take you to other “temples” in the mean time which usually ends up in you being taken to a gold to gem shop they get commission at. Dress Code: No shorts or tank tops, must have legs and shoulders covered not matter how hot it is as it is an active temple. You can rent Thai pajama pants and cover up shirts very cheaply near the gate if needed. There is an official clothes rental place just inside the Palace, but the locals near the main gate will save you a wait in line although it might be $1-2 more. Visiting Hours: Daily 8:30am-4:30pm, last tickets sold at 3:30pm. Ticket Cost: 400 Baht which also includes joint entrance to Wat Phra Kaew Temple plus a visit to Bangkok’s Dusit Palace within 7 days. Once inside you’ll head right to the ticket counter to buy your pass. There is no shade in line and the wait can be really long if you don’t show up earlier in the day. Palace Website: (HERE).
After gaining your good luck, it’s time to investigate the 3 huge towers making up what is called the Upper Terrace area. As you approach from left to right, the jewel of the Upper Terrace is the Sri Lankan-style Golden Chedi called Phra Sri Rattana. It is hard to not be constantly drawn to the Chedi as you walk around the Temple grounds. The tower isn’t just beautiful, but also important as it is said to contain a piece of Buddha’s breastbone and his ashes. Make sure the take in the model of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat complex as you round past the Golden Chedi. It might seem like an odd place for a model of a foreign temple, but serves as a reminder of the Empire’s power from when they controlled neighboring lands. In the middle of the Upper Terrace is a big green library called the Phra Mondop. The library has mother of pearl doors, statues of Chakri kings, plus snakes guardians (nagas) with both human and dragon heads. The last tower on the Upper Terrace is the orange and green Royal Pantheon which is only open to the public one day in October each year to celebrate the forming of the Chakri dynasty. Near the Pantheon are a couple small golden pyramids circled by brightly colored guardians. These playful pyramids are one of our favorite places for photos in Bangkok. On the far North side of the Temple past the Upper Terrace are another collection of 3 buildings making up the Upper Terrace. From left to right are the Auxiliary Library (Ho Phra Monthien Tham), Wihan Yot, and the Royal Mausoleum (Ho Phra Nak). Enjoy the ornate roofs of these buildings before moving toward the Temple’s outer wall. The best hidden feature of Wat Phra Kaew are the 178 mural panels lining the inside of the wall enclosing the temple. These panels wrap clockwise stating at the North gate and around depict the complete story of the Ramakien. Notice the colorful demons fighting in the battle scenes, these are the same protective figures portrayed in the giant demon statues around this and many of the other temples around Bangkok.
The statue’s Emerald Buddha figure wears seasonal costumes, which are changed three times a year to correspond with Summer (crown and jewelry), Winter (golden shawl), and Rainy Months (gilt robe and headdress). This clothing change ceremony is done by the King of Thailand who is the only one allowed to get all the way up to the statue. Covering the interiors walls of the building are murals depicting the life of the Buddha, his steps to enlightenment, and the Buddhist cosmology of the Worlds of Desire, Being, and Illusion; they start on the left with the birth of Buddha in Nepal. Photos are not allowed inside, but you can get photos with a zoom lens near the entrance. The golden doors and guardians around the building are also well worth your time before moving on.
After negotiating you private rental, which is explained below, you’re off the cruise the River in upwards of 35mph. There will be splashes here and there from the waves so to stay the driest sit toward the front of the boat or hold up the plastic protector on the side. If you are wondering why most of the boats are wrapped in colorful ribbons and decorated with fresh flowers it is not just for looks, but for good luck and safe travels. Hiring a Long Tail Boat: Typically you pay a flat fee to go from point to point while sharing the boat with other people, but to really explore you’re want to negotiate a private rental. If you know where you want to go, especially on a map, it will help a ton with negotiating. The N9 Ferry Stop (Tha Chang) is going to be the easiest place to snag a Long Tail, but you may be able to also get one from the N8 Ferry Stop (Tha Tien) or Maharaj Pier with some luck. Cost:A good deal is going to cost between 400-550Baht an hour and you will typically pay at the end of the trip. 6. Thonburi Canals: With a ton of canals shooting off the Chao Phraya River the ones on the Thonburi side are really where you want to go to get a glimpse into Bangkok’s yesteryears. Even just a short ride down the main Thonburi Canal, you will feel the urban jungle of the Bangkok fade behind you as you troll between the compact riverside houses. Most of the houses are very working class and without land, so be prepared to see children on the porches and parents doing laundry in the river. Many tourists who travel the canals end up being invited to meet local canal dwellers and are offered to buy goods from them. A lot of the goods are junk, but there is something romantic about buying hand-made crafts from locals, even if they are a little junky. We find the Thonburi Canals to be a great experience, especially with a camera, and it shouldn’t be missed unless you are on a tight schedule. Sometimes the most amazing part about the ride through the canals if getting off of your feet for a little while after a lot of walking. Taling Chan Floating Market: If your driver suggested going out to the floating market first know that it is a full 3 miles from the Choa Phraya River. If you don’t have a full day available to travel to the more popular Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, then checking out Taling Chan Market here may be worth it. It is open on the weekends from 8am-5pm.
Sitting inside that Temple’s Phra Virhara building, the 150-foot-long, 19-foot-tall golden Reclining Buddha was built in 1832 by King Rama III. The statue depicts Buddha laying on his side, not sleeping, but at the moment where he gained enlightenment. This pose is fitting as right next to the building is a large Bodhi Tree said to have grown from a cut off a piece of the original tree in India which Buddha meditated under. The huge gold plated statue has Mother of Pearl covering his large eyes and the souls of his feet. The pearl on his feet helps to show 108 Thai and Indian scenes (called Lakshanas) representing the 108 auspicious characters of Buddha. The number 108 is carried on throughout the building including the 108 bronze bowls where visitors drop coins in for good luck. You can buy a sack of coins inside and its said leaving one in each bowl will bring good fortune. Before leaving the Phra Virhara building, make to take in the murals covering the walls which show scenes from the life of Buddha. After checking out the historic Bodhi Tree and Crocodile Pond near the Reclining Buddha, head right for the Temple’s 4 tall Chedi towers. The 3 Chedis in a row hold ashes from generations of the Chakri Royal Family and the 4th one not in the row is called the Phra Si Sanphet Chedi which holds a sacred Buddha statue. Only the Royal Family is allowed inside the Chedis, but you can still admire the towers’ beautiful and details porcelain exteriors. You are bound to see various statues of bearded Chinese Ballast, or stone giants, by most of the Temples gates. These guardians represent various segments of Chinese society, but 4 of the sets actually depict Farangs. Farang is the Thai word for Caucasian foreigners and the statues have big noses, European Clothes, and top hats. The character is out of respect of Marco Polo who was the first to introduce the European lifestyle to the Chinese. Wat Pho is said to be the birthplace of Thai massage and it is home to a massage school with eager students ready to work your muscles. Beware ahead of time that if you order the traditional Thai massage it deals with a lot of stretching so it’ll be a lot rougher than ordering the standard massage. As part of the Institute of Massage visitors can also join in to learn the art of massage in 10-15 day classes. Elements of the roots of massage can be seen all over the Temple. The Medicine Pavilion near the 4 Chedis is the best example as it is filled with 60 stone plaques from the 1700s. The plaques are diagrams details Thai Massage therapeutic points and energy pathways, with 30 focused on the front of the body and 30 on the back. The most playful showing of massage is called Hermit Hill where small statues of naked images doing yoga poses and massage dot a series of grassy mounds. Visiting Hours: Daily 8am-6pm. Admission Cost: 100 Baht. Massage Cost: Thai or Foot Massage for 30 minutes is 260 Baht; 1 hour for 420 Baht. Dress Code: While is isn’t enforced as strictly as the Grand Palace they technically don’t allow shorts or tank tops. Should have legs and shoulders covered. Temple Website: (HERE).
16. Bangkok National Museum: Housed in the Front Palace (Wang) which was the home of the King Rama II. Hours: Wednesday-SunDay 9am-4pm. Cost: Baht. Museum Website: (HERE). |
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